My experience of planning my Ladakh trip from scratch as a first timer
honestly guys, i went to leh ladakh last year and it was one wild ride. i’m the kind who hates package tours so i planned everything myself from booking flights to making the day wise plan. ngl it was stressful at first but totally worth it. here’s my full real talk about the trip, with all the good bad and ugly parts.
How to Reach?
i flew straight from delhi to leh. the flight is just about 1.5 hours but trust me the views from the window are insane. snow peaks everywhere. but the landing is scary af, the runway is short and surrounded by mountains. my heart was in my mouth.
if you’re coming by road, you can take the manali-leh or srinagar-leh highway. both are beautiful but take 2-3 days minimum. i didn’t do the road trip this time because i had only 8 days total. next time i wanna do the bike ride though.
pro tip: book your flight tickets at least 2-3 months early. prices go crazy during peak season. i paid around 6500 one way from delhi. also, the leh airport is at 11000 feet so dont run when you land. walk slowly like an old uncle.
the airport is super small. you come out, take a taxi to leh town which costs 400-500. taxis are everywhere but they charge fixed rates mostly.
Where to Stay?
i stayed at different places because i was moving around. in leh town i stayed at a small guesthouse called ladakh retreat. cost me 800 per night. the room was basic but clean. hot water worked only in morning. to be fair the owner was super sweet aunty who made me feel like home.
in nubra i stayed at a homestay in hundar village. that place was actually really good. 1200 per night including dinner. the family was amazing and their home cooked food was next level. they had two cute dogs also.
for pangong lake i stayed in a tent camp. honestly this was the weakest part. the tent was freezing at night even in july. blankets were not enough. i literally slept in 3 layers of clothes. never again. next time i’ll book a proper hut or something.
my honest opinion – stay in family run homestays instead of fancy hotels. they’re cheaper, people are warmer and you get better food. i saw some instagram worthy camps but they were overpriced and staff was rude.
What to Eat?
ladakh food is simple but tasty yaar. my favourite was thukpa. its like thick soup with noodles and veggies. i had it almost everyday. momos are everywhere but after some time they all taste same.
in leh market you must try sky restaurant or gesmo. their chocolate banana pancake is dangerous. i ate it 4 times. also try ladakhi butter tea once. first sip i almost vomited but then i actually started liking it. its salty but gives you energy in cold.
for non veg people, the yak meat is available but i didn’t try. i’m pure veg so limited options sometimes. in remote places like pangong, food options are very basic. mostly dal rice, maggi and omelette.
ngl the best meal i had was at a random dhaba in magnetic hill. they made rajma chawal that tasted like my mom’s cooking. sometimes the simple places surprise you the most.
dont expect fancy cafes everywhere. after leh, it’s mostly basic food. carry some snacks from delhi like nuts and biscuits. they’ll save you.
Best Time to Visit
i went in mid july. weather was mostly good but it rained for two days in leh which was annoying. roads get slippery and visibility becomes zero.
best time is june to september. may and october are risky because of snow. i wanted to go in september for less crowd but my leaves didn’t match.
honestly the crowd in july was too much at pangong. felt like everyone in india decided to visit same day. if you can go in june or last week of august, do that. less people, better experience.
winter ladakh is beautiful too but only if you’re ready for -20 temperature and all passes closed. not for first timers.
Budget (Indian Rupees)
let me break it down for 7 days trip for one person:
flights: 13000 (round trip)
taxi for whole trip: 28000 (i hired one innova for 6 days)
stay: 8500
food: 4500
permits and entry fees: 1500
oxygen cylinder and medicines: 800
random shopping and misc: 3000
total around 58,000. but if you share taxi with 3-4 people then taxi cost comes down to 8000-9000 per head. that makes total budget around 35-40k easily.
i saw some reels saying you can do in 15k. they’re either lying or hitchhiking and staying in terrible places. be realistic.
my trip was comfortable but not luxury. if you want good hotels then easily add another 15-20k.
Tips for First-Timers
first and most important – acclimatize properly. i reached leh and next day went to nubra. big mistake. i got mild headache and felt pukish for two days. stay in leh for minimum 2 full days before going higher.
drink lots of water. carry diamox but don’t take without doctor advice. i took half tablet on first day.
the sun is very strong. i got tanned like anything even with sunscreen. wear cap and sunglasses.
roads are bad in many places. my back still hurts remembering those bumpy rides. if you have back problems, think twice.
internet is very patchy. only airtel and jio work sometimes. buy local sim if possible but even that is not great.
dont trust google maps completely. many roads are closed or diverted. ask locals.
carry power bank. electricity cuts are common.
and seriously, don’t be that person who plays loud music at pangong lake. respect the place and people.
ladakhis are very nice but they’re also tired of tourists throwing garbage everywhere. dont be that tourist.
FAQ
is ladakh safe for solo female travellers?
yes mostly. but after 7pm don’t roam alone in remote areas. i saw many solo girls but they were careful.
do i need to hire taxi or can i rent bike?
if it’s your first time, hire taxi. bike rental is good only if you have riding experience in mountains. too many accidents happen.
is it very cold?
in summer days are pleasant but nights are cold. i needed sweater even in daytime sometimes. carry warm clothes.
can i go without oxygen?
yes if you don’t have breathing issues. but keep one cylinder in car. costs 300-400.
is there atms everywhere?
only in leh. after that very limited. carry enough cash. i faced problem in nubra when my card didn’t work.
should i book everything in advance?
for stay in leh yes. for other places you can book after reaching leh. rates are better when you negotiate on spot.
looking back, planning from scratch was the best decision. i customized everything according to my mood. some days i just sat in one place and did nothing. that freedom felt amazing.
but tbh it’s not easy. the altitude, the bad roads, the cold nights, all test you. i had moments when i thought why did i come here. then i’d see the mountains and everything felt worth it.
if you’re someone who likes comfort and 5 star hotels, ladakh might disappoint you. but if you like real experiences, meeting new people, eating simple food and don’t mind roughing it out a bit, then you’ll love it.
i’m already planning my next trip. this time maybe in september and maybe on bike. wish me luck.
have you been to ladakh? what’s your experience? tell me in comments. and if you’re planning, feel free to ask me anything. i’ll reply.
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