Backpacking Myanmar: What It’s Really Like
How to Reach?
Getting into Myanmar isn’t as simple as it used to be. I flew into Yangon from Bangkok because the flights were cheap and the visa process was straightforward. Honestly, most people still come from Thailand. You can catch a bus from Bangkok to the border or fly direct for under 3000 INR one way if you book early.
The big change is that e-visas are easy now. I applied online, paid about 3500 INR, and got approved in two days. Don’t show up without one. Land borders are open but they’re a hassle and some still have restrictions. I wouldn’t bother unless you’re already in Thailand and want the overland experience.
Flights inside the country are actually pretty affordable. I took a few with Air KBZ and the prices weren’t bad at all. Buses are cheaper but take forever. The overnight bus from Yangon to Bagan cost me 1200 INR and I honestly didn’t sleep a wink. The roads are rough and the driver seemed half asleep. To be fair, I met people who loved the bus rides. I didn’t.
Yangon airport is basic but fine. Just don’t expect fancy stuff. Immigration was quick for me but I’ve heard stories of it taking ages. Have your hotel booking ready because they sometimes ask.
Where to Stay?
I stayed in hostels the whole time and it was mostly decent. In Yangon I picked a place called Space Hotel near Sule Pagoda. It was 800 INR a night for a dorm bed. The AC worked most of the time and the staff were actually helpful. The downside? The showers were freezing in the morning and someone stole my flip flops. Ngl, that sucked.
Bagan was my favorite for accommodation. I stayed at a cheap guesthouse called Oasis for 700 INR a night. Private room with fan. The owner made killer coffee in the mornings and helped me rent a bike. The place wasn’t fancy but it felt like staying with family. The only negative was the mosquitoes. They were brutal at sunset.
In Inle Lake I went with a homestay in Nyaungshwe. Cost me about 900 INR including breakfast. The lady who ran it cooked amazing food but the mattress was so thin I woke up with back pain every day. Seriously, bring a sleeping pad if you’re picky about beds.
Mandalay was the worst for hostels. I stayed in a big party place and it was loud until 3am every night. The location was good but I barely slept. If I went again I’d pay a bit more for somewhere quieter. To be fair, it was only 650 INR a night so I can’t complain too much.
Book ahead during peak season or you’ll end up in dodgy places. I saw some really grim hostels that looked like they hadn’t been cleaned since 2015.
What to Eat?
The food in Myanmar is honestly hit or miss but when it’s good, it’s really good. My favorite thing was the tea shops. You’d sit on a tiny plastic stool and they’d bring you strong milk tea and these fried snacks. I ate so many samosas and parathas. Breakfast for 150 INR including tea. Can’t beat that.
Mohinga was my daily breakfast. It’s this fish soup with noodles and it’s actually delicious. I was skeptical at first but ended up eating it almost every morning. The best one I had was from a street cart in Yangon for 80 INR. The lady smiled at me every day when I came back.
In Bagan I got obsessed with Burmese salads. The tea leaf salad is weird but addictive. They mix fermented tea leaves with nuts, beans, and tomatoes. Sounds strange but it works. I had one that was too fishy though and it put me off for a week.
The curries are oily. Like really oily. I enjoyed them but my stomach didn’t always agree. After a week I was craving vegetables so bad. The Indian restaurants saved me. There are tons of them and the food is cheap and familiar. I ate at one in Mandalay that did perfect butter chicken for 300 INR.
Street food is everywhere but I got food poisoning once. It wasn’t fun. The BBQ stalls looked amazing but I learned to be careful. Stick to places with lots of locals if you’re going to eat street food.
Ngapi (fermented fish paste) is in everything. I actually started liking the taste but the smell in the markets was intense. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.
Best Time to Visit
I went in November and it was perfect. Not too hot, not too wet. The temples in Bagan looked amazing with clear skies. If you’re going to Inle Lake, this is when the water levels are good for boat trips.
December to February is peak season. Everything costs more and the popular spots get crowded. I met people who went in January and said Bagan was packed with tour groups. Still doable but not as relaxed.
March to May is stupid hot. Like 40 degrees hot. I wouldn’t recommend it unless you love suffering. The locals basically hide indoors during the day.
June to October is rainy season. Some roads get flooded and boats to Inle Lake sometimes can’t run. But prices drop a lot and there are fewer tourists. I actually met a couple who went in July and said it was their favorite trip because everything was green and cheap.
For budget travelers, shoulder season (October or April) makes the most sense. That’s what I’d do next time.
Budget (Indian Rupees)
I averaged about 2800 INR per day for everything. That’s with hostels, local food, buses, and entry fees. You can definitely do it for less if you’re careful.
Breakdown looked like this:
– Accommodation: 700-1000 INR per night
– Food: 500-800 INR per day (eating local)
– Transport: depends where you’re going. Domestic flights are 4000-7000 INR but buses are 1000-2000 INR
– Activities: Bagan zone fee was 6500 INR and it’s valid for a week. Inle Lake zone was 4500 INR. These are expensive but you can’t avoid them.
I spent way more in Bagan because I rented an e-bike for 800 INR a day. Totally worth it though. In Yangon I barely spent anything. Just walked around and ate street food.
The budget from that Reddit post I read before going was pretty accurate. They said $37.50 per person and I was around there. Some days I spent 1500 INR, other days I went over 4000 when I took a flight or did a tour.
Alcohol is expensive. A beer costs more than a whole meal sometimes. I mostly stuck to the local rum which was cheap but gave me terrible hangovers.
Entry fees add up fast. Every temple seems to want 500-1000 INR. The big ones are worth it but I skipped some smaller ones when I was running low on cash.
Tips for First-Timers
Don’t overplan. I had this perfect itinerary and ended up changing everything after the first week. The best experiences came from random conversations with locals.
Get a local SIM card immediately. It’s cheap and the internet works okay in cities. Data is slow in rural areas though.
Dress modestly at temples. Shoulders and knees covered. I saw tourists getting scolded and it was awkward. Also take your shoes off. The floors get really hot in the afternoon so watch your feet.
Learn a few Burmese words. “Mingalaba” for hello goes a long way. People were so much friendlier when I tried.
The power cuts are real. Bring a power bank. I lost count of how many times I was stuck in the dark.
Be careful with money. ATMs sometimes eat cards and not everywhere accepts cards. Bring US dollars in good condition as backup. They love crisp $100 bills.
The touts in Bagan are persistent. They’ll follow you on bikes trying to sell tours. Just be polite but firm. I got annoyed a few times but learned to ignore them after a while.
Sun protection is important. I got burned badly in Bagan because I thought my tan would protect me. Bring good sunscreen and a hat.
Don’t drink the tap water. Ever. I saw so many travelers get sick from this. Buy bottled water or use purification tablets.
The internet is blocked sometimes. Facebook gets banned randomly. Don’t count on being able to use certain apps.
People are genuinely nice. I got invited to someone’s house for tea twice. That part of the trip was my favorite. Just be respectful and don’t take photos without asking.
FAQ
Is Myanmar safe right now?
It’s complicated. The political situation isn’t great but tourists aren’t usually targeted. I felt safe the whole time but stuck to main areas. Check current travel advisories before you go. I avoided political discussions with locals.
Do I need to book everything in advance?
No. I booked my first two nights in Yangon and then just showed up everywhere else. During peak season you might want to book Bagan accommodation ahead.
Can I travel alone as a woman?
I met several solo female travelers and they all said it was fine. Just use normal caution at night and dress modestly.
Is it worth going to Myanmar right now?
Honestly? Yes, but with eyes open. The country is dealing with serious issues and your money might not always reach the right people. I struggled with this before going. To be fair, the people I met were wonderful and tourism helps some communities directly.
How long should I go for?
10-14 days is good for the main spots. I did 12 days and felt it was enough without rushing too much. You could easily spend a month if you want to go slower.
What’s the hardest part?
The heat and the constant fees. Also watching young kids selling stuff at temples made me uncomfortable. It’s not an easy country to travel but that’s part of why I liked it.
Will I regret not going?
Probably. The temples in Bagan at sunrise are as good as everyone says. Even with all the negatives, it was one of my favorite trips. Just don’t expect everything to be perfect.
I spent just over 35,000 INR for 12 days including flights from India. That’s pretty good for what I got to see. Myanmar isn’t perfect. The infrastructure is bad, the government situation is worrying, and your stomach will probably hate you at some point. But the people are kind, the temples are unreal, and it’s still relatively cheap compared to the rest of Southeast Asia.
Would I go back? Yeah, I think so. But I’d do it differently next time with more knowledge about where my money was going. If you’re on the fence, go soon before it changes even more. Just don’t romanticize it too much. It’s a real place with real problems.
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